Professor Moody’s Hose: Now on Ravelry!
Materials:
<> Whatever yarn you want. I used 4 oz. Dream in Color Smooshy, colorway Blue Lagoon
<> Set of 5 double point needles. I used US sz. 1 for a gauge of 8 sts per inch. Using the small directions yielded a small ladies’ sock.
<> Appropriately sized cable needle or extra dpn.
Sizes: Lots of ribbing makes these socks very stretchy.
Note about the sizes: I choose my yarn and needles based on the number of sts in the foot. Thus, the size labels are only that, labels. You could knit these for a large person using worsted wool, and the small size directions. Use the size that best suits your yarn, gauge, and recipient. Mine were knit with fingering weight yarn and the small instructions to yield a small ladies’ sock.
<> Small – 92 sts at calf, 60 sts at ankle and foot
<> Medium – 100 sts at calf, 68 sts at ankle and foot
<> Large – 108 sts at calf, 76 sts at ankle and foot
<> Extra-Large – 116 sts at calf, 84 sts at ankle and foot
Rundown:
I designed these after the hose we see Professor Moody wearing for one second at the Yule Ball in the movie version of Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire. I was intregued by the calf shaping, as it doesn’t seem to follow conventional stocking rules. This is my own interpretation of his kilthose.
These are traditionally knitted cuff-down calf length stockings with a fold over top. There are “clocks” running down the inside and outside of the leg, all decreasing occurs at 4 points next to these clocks, there is no back seam. The clock design incorporates a 5 stitch twisted ribbed cable and a 6 stitch zigzag brocade panel that counts rounds between cable crosses. All decreases occur during cable cross rounds so there is very little need for the chart or pattern once you understand how it works. The heel is done in heel stitch and is started one pattern repeat above the ankle split. The clocks continue into the foot, the sock ends with a plain toe.
Ready to go?
<> Using your favorite stretchy cast-on, CO 92 (100, 108, 116) stitches, divide evenly onto 4 dpns 23 (25, 27, 29) sts per needle, and join into the round. Leave your cast-on tail to mark the beginning of the round. The round will begin and end at the back of the leg.
<> Work K1 P1 ribbing for 2 inches, then knit 3 rounds plain. Then we’ll set up for our patterns.
<> Establish your pattern-
Sizes Small and Large:
1st and 3rd needles: P1 *K2 P2* 3 (4) times K2tbl P1 K2tbl P2 K3.
2nd and 4th needles: K3 P2 K2tbl P1 K2tbl *P2 K2* 3 (4) times P1.
Sizes Medium and Extra-Large:
1st and 3rd needles: K1 *P2 K2* 3 (4) times P2 K2tbl P1 K2tbl P2 K3.
2nd and 4th needles: K3 P2 K2tbl P1 K2tbl P2 *K2 P2* 3 (4) times K1.
<> The 6 st panels between needles 1&2 and 3&4 are your row keeper panels, the groups of K2tbl P1 K2tbl will be your ribbed cables. These 20 sts form the clock and are the only elements I have charted- the rest of the stocking leg is worked (as established) in K2 P2 ribbing.
The clock chart: Read top to bottom, left to right.
Note: I would encourage you to not make your zigzag panels mirror each other. This will make your life easier while working the ankle and heel.
“B” indicated a twisted stitch, Ktbl.
To work twisted rib cable: Cable Front: Sl 2 sts onto cable needle, hold to front. K2tbl, P1, K2tbl off cable needle. Cable Back: Sl 3 sts onto cable needle, hold to back. K2tbl, P1, K2tbl off cable needle.
Decreasing:
All decreases occur next to the clocks and during cable cross rounds. All decreases are P2tog. Start your decreases on your 5th (small and medium) or 6th (large and extra large) cable cross round.
<> Decrease Round 1:
Small and Large: P1 K2 P2 K2 (P2 K2) P1 P2tog P2tog P1 {clock as charted} P1 P2tog P2tog P1 work rest of needle as established, repeat for other side of leg. 8 stitches decreased 84 (100) sts remain
Medium and Extra-Large: K1 *P2 K2* 2 (3) times P1 P2tog P2tog P1 {clock as charted} P1 P2tog P2tog P1 work rest of needle as established, repeat for other side of leg. 8 stitches decreased 92 (108) sts remain
<> Decrease Round 2: Next cable cross round- Just outside each cable you have 4 purl stitches. P1 P2tog P1 at each set. 4 sts decreased 80 (88, 96, 104) sts remain.
<> Decrease Round 3: Next cable cross round- Just outside each cable you have 3 purl stitches. P2tog P1 on needles 1 and 3. P1 P2tog on needles 2 and 4. 4 sts decreased 76 (84, 92, 100) sts remain.
<> Decrease Round 4: Second cable cross round after last decreases-
6 sts before the clock: P1 P2tog P2tog P1 {clock as charted} P1 P2tog P2tog P1 work rest of needle as established, repeat for other side of leg. 8 stitches decreased 68 (76, 84, 92) sts remain.
<> Decrease Round 5: Next cable cross round- Just outside each cable you have 4 purl stitches. P1 P2tog P1 at each set. 4 sts decreased 64 (72, 80, 88) sts remain.
<> Decrease Round 6: Next cable cross round- Just outside each cable you have 3 purl stitches. P2tog P1 on needles 1 and 3. P1 P2tog on needles 2 and 4. 4 sts decreased 60 (68, 76, 84) sts remain.
Work one more cable cross – more for knee length stockings. Then…
Ankle:
I dislike sock patterning rubbing the backs of my heels when wearing shoes, so I’ve worked heel stitch on the back of the leg before dividing for the heel flap. You can take or leave this idea without hurting my feelings- I’ll give you the instructions for both. Note: For the high heeled sock you will be losing 3 sts from each zigzag panel to the heel sts while still needing them to count cable rounds- if your zigzag panels are identical (ie. not mirrored) you will still have the proper tools- needle 2 will count 3 rounds, needle 3 will count 3 rounds.
<> Low heeled sock or patterned ankle- work one more cable cross round before dividing for heel.
<> High heeled sock or smooth ankle- after last cable cross round:
Round 1: needle 1 knit plain, needles 2 and 3 work as established, needle 4 knit plain
Round 2: Knit needle 1’s sts onto needle 4, you now have 1 needle with heel sts and 2 needles with front/instep sts. Work front as established, work heel sts *sl1 K1* across
Round 3: Work front as established, work heel plain.
Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until the next cable cross (second cross after last decrease) ending with *sl1 K1* heel sts. You may have to go around 1 more time to end up with *sl1 K1* heel sts, this is not important.
Heel:
<> Using the 30 (34, 38, 42) stitches from needles 1 and 4 work back and forth in heel stitch (*sl1 K1* on right side, sl1, purl to end on wrong side) until you have 18 (20, 22, 22) chain sts on each side.
<> Turning the Heel: sl1 K16 (18, 20, 22) SSK K1 turn, sl1 P5 P2tog P1 turn. Sl1 knit to within one if the gap SSK K1 turn, sl1 purl to within one of the gap P2tog P1 turn, repeat until all heel stitches are worked.
Gussets and Foot:
<> Pick up and knit all the chain sts up the side of the heel, work across the instep as established, and pick up a corresponding number of sts down the other side of the heel.
<> The round now begins at the bottom of the foot. Next round. Gusset 1: knit to within 7 of the instep, K2tog, then re-establish the clock pattern – P2, K3. Work across instep. Gusset 2: K3, P2 to re-establish clock pattern, SSK, knit to end.
<> Continue as established, decreasing at each clock every second round until you have the same number of sts as at the ankle.
<> Work foot to desired length.
Toe:
<> Discontinue all patterning. The 6 st brocade panel now becomes the decrease panel. Arrange your sts so the needle breaks occur at the exact sides of the foot – same as – the center of the 6 st panel.
<> Round 1: Needles 1 and 3: Knit to 4 of the end, K2tog, K2. Needles 2 and 4: K2, SSK, knit to end.
<> Round 2: Work all sts plain.
<> Repeat the foregoing 2 rounds until you have a total of 28 (32, 36, 36) sts, graft the top and bottom of the toe together.
VOILA!
Please please please: This pattern has not been test knit. If you discover any mistakes please let me know so I can fix them!
This is great.
Awesome socks! Beautiful stitch details. I will have to put these on my list of socks to do!
I cannot wait to knit these! Thanks for sharing the pattern.
Muchas gracias intentare hacerlo no conosco esos simbolos pero intentare muy linda media asi se le llama aqui en Uruguay
The are beautiful! Would you be able to post what size you made and the aproximate amount of yarn used? Thanks!!!
If I made socks, I would make these. Wonderful! And who cares if there are too many words in a pattern…I appreciate it when someone does not assume I can read their minds!!!
These are gorgeous! Already added to my queue in ravelry!
I love these socks…thanks so much for posting the pattern. These will definitely be added to my Rav Favs…
See, I keep telling you you’re brilliant!
Queued, and about to print it off. ;P
As for not making my cables mirror each other, bah! We’ll see when I actually get around to making them. ;P
Really pretty socks! Thanks for the pattern.
Lovely pattern!
Wow…that is SO awesome. I might have to test knit this for you. 🙂
I’m putting it in my queue and printing now.
What a nice design – and I really like starting the heel flap stitch on the back of the leg. That’s a great idea. Thanks for sharing your design!
These are fantastic — thanks so much for sharing the pattern!
Started these withtrekking pro nautura (new wool and bamboo).
Wish me luck
Reblogged this on Strickpfoten.