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Professor Moody’s Hose: Now on Ravelry!

Materials:
<> Whatever yarn you want. I used 4 oz.  Dream in Color Smooshy, colorway Blue Lagoon
<> Set of 5 double point needles.  I used US sz. 1 for a gauge of 8 sts per inch.  Using the small directions yielded a small ladies’ sock.

<> Appropriately sized cable needle or extra dpn.

Sizes: Lots of ribbing makes these socks very stretchy.
Note about the sizes: I choose my yarn and needles based on the number of sts in the foot. Thus, the size labels are only that, labels. You could knit these for a large person using worsted wool, and the small size directions. Use the size that best suits your yarn, gauge, and recipient.  Mine were knit with fingering weight yarn and the small instructions to yield a small ladies’ sock.
<> Small – 92 sts at calf, 60 sts at ankle and foot
<> Medium – 100 sts at calf, 68 sts at ankle and foot
<> Large – 108 sts at calf, 76 sts at ankle and foot
<> Extra-Large – 116 sts at calf, 84 sts at ankle and foot

Rundown:
I designed these after the hose we see Professor Moody wearing for one second at the Yule Ball in the movie version of Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire. I was intregued by the calf shaping, as it doesn’t seem to follow conventional stocking rules. This is my own interpretation of his kilthose.

These are traditionally knitted cuff-down calf length stockings with a fold over top. There are “clocks” running down the inside and outside of the leg, all decreasing occurs at 4 points next to these clocks, there is no back seam. The clock design incorporates a 5 stitch twisted ribbed cable and a 6 stitch zigzag brocade panel that counts rounds between cable crosses. All decreases occur during cable cross rounds so there is very little need for the chart or pattern once you understand how it works. The heel is done in heel stitch and is started one pattern repeat above the ankle split. The clocks continue into the foot, the sock ends with a plain toe.

Ready to go?
<> Using your favorite stretchy cast-on, CO 92 (100, 108, 116) stitches, divide evenly onto 4 dpns 23 (25, 27, 29) sts per needle, and join into the round. Leave your cast-on tail to mark the beginning of the round. The round will begin and end at the back of the leg.
<> Work K1 P1 ribbing for 2 inches, then knit 3 rounds plain. Then we’ll set up for our patterns.
<> Establish your pattern-
Sizes Small and Large:
1st and 3rd needles: P1 *K2 P2* 3 (4) times K2tbl P1 K2tbl P2 K3.
2nd and 4th needles: K3 P2 K2tbl P1 K2tbl *P2 K2* 3 (4) times P1.
Sizes Medium and Extra-Large:
1st and 3rd needles: K1 *P2 K2* 3 (4) times P2 K2tbl P1 K2tbl P2 K3.
2nd and 4th needles: K3 P2 K2tbl P1 K2tbl P2 *K2 P2* 3 (4) times K1.
<> The 6 st panels between needles 1&2 and 3&4 are your row keeper panels, the groups of K2tbl P1 K2tbl will be your ribbed cables. These 20 sts form the clock and are the only elements I have charted- the rest of the stocking leg is worked (as established) in K2 P2 ribbing.

The clock chart: Read top to bottom, left to right.
Note: I would encourage you to not make your zigzag panels mirror each other. This will make your life easier while working the ankle and heel.

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“B” indicated a twisted stitch, Ktbl.

To work twisted rib cable: Cable Front: Sl 2 sts onto cable needle, hold to front. K2tbl, P1, K2tbl off cable needle. Cable Back: Sl 3 sts onto cable needle, hold to back. K2tbl, P1, K2tbl off cable needle.
Decreasing:
All decreases occur next to the clocks and during cable cross rounds. All decreases are P2tog. Start your decreases on your 5th (small and medium) or 6th (large and extra large) cable cross round.
<> Decrease Round 1:
Small and Large: P1 K2 P2 K2 (P2 K2) P1 P2tog P2tog P1 {clock as charted} P1 P2tog P2tog P1 work rest of needle as established, repeat for other side of leg. 8 stitches decreased 84 (100) sts remain
Medium and Extra-Large: K1 *P2 K2* 2 (3) times P1 P2tog P2tog P1 {clock as charted} P1 P2tog P2tog P1 work rest of needle as established, repeat for other side of leg. 8 stitches decreased 92 (108) sts remain
<> Decrease Round 2: Next cable cross round- Just outside each cable you have 4 purl stitches. P1 P2tog P1 at each set. 4 sts decreased 80 (88, 96, 104) sts remain.
<> Decrease Round 3: Next cable cross round- Just outside each cable you have 3 purl stitches. P2tog P1 on needles 1 and 3. P1 P2tog on needles 2 and 4. 4 sts decreased 76 (84, 92, 100) sts remain.

<> Decrease Round 4: Second cable cross round after last decreases-
6 sts before the clock: P1 P2tog P2tog P1 {clock as charted} P1 P2tog P2tog P1 work rest of needle as established, repeat for other side of leg. 8 stitches decreased 68 (76, 84, 92) sts remain.
<> Decrease Round 5: Next cable cross round- Just outside each cable you have 4 purl stitches. P1 P2tog P1 at each set. 4 sts decreased 64 (72, 80, 88) sts remain.
<> Decrease Round 6: Next cable cross round- Just outside each cable you have 3 purl stitches. P2tog P1 on needles 1 and 3. P1 P2tog on needles 2 and 4. 4 sts decreased 60 (68, 76, 84) sts remain.
Work one more cable cross – more for knee length stockings. Then…

Ankle:
I dislike sock patterning rubbing the backs of my heels when wearing shoes, so I’ve worked heel stitch on the back of the leg before dividing for the heel flap. You can take or leave this idea without hurting my feelings- I’ll give you the instructions for both. Note: For the high heeled sock you will be losing 3 sts from each zigzag panel to the heel sts while still needing them to count cable rounds- if your zigzag panels are identical (ie. not mirrored) you will still have the proper tools- needle 2 will count 3 rounds, needle 3 will count 3 rounds.
<> Low heeled sock or patterned ankle- work one more cable cross round before dividing for heel.
<> High heeled sock or smooth ankle- after last cable cross round:
Round 1: needle 1 knit plain, needles 2 and 3 work as established, needle 4 knit plain
Round 2: Knit needle 1’s sts onto needle 4, you now have 1 needle with heel sts and 2 needles with front/instep sts. Work front as established, work heel sts *sl1 K1* across
Round 3: Work front as established, work heel plain.
Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until the next cable cross (second cross after last decrease) ending with *sl1 K1* heel sts. You may have to go around 1 more time to end up with *sl1 K1* heel sts, this is not important.

Heel:
<> Using the 30 (34, 38, 42) stitches from needles 1 and 4 work back and forth in heel stitch (*sl1 K1* on right side, sl1, purl to end on wrong side) until you have 18 (20, 22, 22) chain sts on each side.
<> Turning the Heel: sl1 K16 (18, 20, 22) SSK K1 turn, sl1 P5 P2tog P1 turn. Sl1 knit to within one if the gap SSK K1 turn, sl1 purl to within one of the gap P2tog P1 turn, repeat until all heel stitches are worked.

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Gussets and Foot:
<> Pick up and knit all the chain sts up the side of the heel, work across the instep as established, and pick up a corresponding number of sts down the other side of the heel.
<> The round now begins at the bottom of the foot. Next round. Gusset 1: knit to within 7 of the instep, K2tog, then re-establish the clock pattern – P2, K3. Work across instep. Gusset 2: K3, P2 to re-establish clock pattern, SSK, knit to end.
<> Continue as established, decreasing at each clock every second round until you have the same number of sts as at the ankle.
<> Work foot to desired length.

Toe:
<> Discontinue all patterning. The 6 st brocade panel now becomes the decrease panel. Arrange your sts so the needle breaks occur at the exact sides of the foot – same as – the center of the 6 st panel.
<> Round 1: Needles 1 and 3: Knit to 4 of the end, K2tog, K2. Needles 2 and 4: K2, SSK, knit to end.
<> Round 2: Work all sts plain.
<> Repeat the foregoing 2 rounds until you have a total of 28 (32, 36, 36) sts, graft the top and bottom of the toe together.

VOILA!

Please please please: This pattern has not been test knit. If you discover any mistakes please let me know so I can fix them!

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I had 8 people favorite this hat it’s first 24 hours on Ravelry. For a small knitter like me that is unheard of. I wasn’t planning to write a pattern for this hat, but there was interest so here you go. I don’t yet have the cabability to create PDF files, so for now the blog format will have to do. If you experience any problems please let me know.

The pattern is adapted from a Binge colorwork pattern found in “Traditional Scandinavian Knitting.”

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Size: 20″ around / 8.5″ from brim to crown

Gauge: 5 stitches per inch over stockinette in the round

Materials: 50 gms each of 2 colors in a (preferably) woolen-spun DK weight yarn. I used my own handspun yarn.

Needle: 16″ and double point needles in a size to give you the above gauge, I used US sz. 5 / 3.75mm

Pattern Notes: Each round has three pattern repeats, each is 34 sts, so I would recommend using gauge for minor size adjustments. If you are clever you can hide the pattern jog and keep your patterns intact by anticipating them at the end of the round. There are some very long floats so keep everything loose, and weave in the unused color every few stitches if this helps you. The contrast brim is picked up afterward from the CO edge, decreased to hold in the edge and bound off.

Using your contrast color and the Long-Tail Cast-On CO 102 stitches, place marker and join to work in the round. Note: this is not what I did on my hat. Casting on with the contrast color will give you a more distinct stripe for the brim.

Start working from the chart, chart is repeated 3 times per round. Chart is read right to left bottom to top, all rows are right side. The crown shaping looks very odd charted out, but it makes more sense once you get there. Switch to double point needles when necessary.

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When you have completed the chart you will have 12 stitches left. K2tog around, break wool, thread through remaining stitches and fasten off.

Try on your hat and decide how much brim you need to make the hat the right length for you.

Contrast brim: Using your contrast color, pick up and knit all 102 cast-on loops. Next round: P5 P2tog around. Next round: Bind-off loosely in purl. Note: if you need a taller hat, knit a few rounds of garter stitch before binding off.

Weave in ends, wash, block, and enjoy!

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This is for Whaledancer from over at Zimmermania who requested a more detailed recipe for the shorties.

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These can be knit in any size, at any gauge. So pick your yarn and needles and make yourself a nice big swatch. These are made entirely in the round, so make your swatch in the round too. Then measure (honestly) your thighs, hips, and waist. Take measurements on both thighs and average, just in case. Using your gauge and measurements you’ll calculate the stitch count for each section, then subtract some for negative ease. In case you’ve never made a garment this way I’ll show you my calculations here: My gauge throughout was 5 sts per inch.
Thigh- 19.5 inches at 5 spi = 98 sts 98 times 0.9 (90% for a 10% negative ease) = 88 sts each thigh

Hips- 33.5 inches at 5 spi = 168 sts 168 times 0.93 (for added flexibilty at leg join, only 7% negative ease here) = 156 sts at hip

Waist- 26 inches at 5 spi = 130 sts 130 times 0.9 (10% negative ease again) = 118 sts at waist

If you end up with odd numbers or fractions just round up a bit.

Pick your favorite stretchy cast on and start knitting your legs on a 16in needle. Work in K2P2 ribbing for a couple inches before switching to stockinette and knitting to the desired length. My legs were 4.5 inches long, and they are very short, you may well want a longer leg. When your first leg is done you can store it on your 24in needle while you make the second.

When both legs are done you’ll need to calculate your crotch stitches. Like so: [my numbers are in parentheses] Thigh stitches (88) minus half-hip (156 /2 = 78) stitches = crotch (10) stitches each leg.

Put the crotch stitches for each leg on waste wool and assemble both legs on the 24in. needle. During assembly, place markers at center front and back, and at each side ‘seam’ Knit 2 rnds plain.

Now we will start the short-row bum shaping. Knit across the bum to your left side seam- slip marker, wrap, turn. Purl back to the right side seam- slip marker, wrap, turn. Knit all the way around (one and a half rounds), and back to the left side seam – slip marker, K2, wrap, turn. Purl to right seam- slip marker, P2, wrap, turn. Knit all the way around again. Do you see the pattern? The next short row will be 4 stitches beyond the marker, then 6, 8, and 10. Knit one full round between each set of short-rows. These 6 short rows were all the shaping I needed. Other people may need more or less.

Knit around until there are about 12 rnds at your center front marker. Then we’ll start the waist decreasing. This will decrease at the rate of 4 sts (2 pairs) every 3rd round. We’re going to start our decreases at center front and back and move outward one stitch every decrease pair.

Like so: Knit to within 3 of front marker, SSK, K2, K2tog, knit to within 3 of back marker, SSK, K2, K2tog, knit 2 rnds plain. Next set of decreases: knit to within 4 of front marker, SSK, K4, K2tog, knit to within 4 of back marker, SSK, K4, K2 tog, knit 2 rnds plain. And so on through as many decreases as you need to reach your waist number. If you need to decrease a number of stitches that doesn’t divide evenly by 4, put the extra set of decreases at the back.

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Do they look like shorts yet? I would recommend that you put everything on waste wool and try them on now to see how they feel. Do you like the height of the waist? Do you need more/less bum shaping? I liked the bum, but wanted the waist higher (and to finish the ball) so I knit around another 10 rnds plain before switching to ribbing.

When you are satisfied, start working K2P2 ribbing. You can add eyelets for a drawstring if you like. K2 YO P2tog around to make eyelets. Then keep on ribbing until you are sick of it or run out of yarn. Bind off loosely.
Last bit of finishing is the gusset. If these are for everyday wear you probably don’t need one- just graft/weave the crotch sts together. If, however these are for a dancer or another high-kicker, the gusset is a good idea.

This took me several tries and I’m not sure it’s perfect; but it’s functional and that’s just fine. So put both legs’ gusset stitches onto 4 dpns, join yarn and knit 2 rnds. Then on just one leg’s sts we’re going to do more short rows. I had 10 sts so that’s how I’ll explain it. K8, wrap, turn. P6, wrap, turn. K4, wrap, turn. P4, wrap, turn. K6, wrap, turn. P8, wrap, turn. K10, graft gusset and leg sts together. Make sense? You can extrapolate that out for however many crotch stitches you end up with.
And that, my friends, is how we do that. If you have any questions or confusions please let me know and I’ll try to help!

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The Princess Dress

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This dress starts at the neck and is knit in the round all the way to the bottom of the skirt. I used Elizabeth Zimmermann’s excellent garment building principles to get my base numbers. I’m going to assume most knitters have a basic grounding with EPS. If so, my instructions should be rather straightforward. If you are not aquainted with EZ, read one of her (many, excellent) books first.

First you need your gauge, with your yarn, and the desired finished chest measurement. Using this info- calculate how many sts your chest will be and call that number 100%. These instructions use 40% for the upper sleeve. The neck starts at 60%. A very convenient number for a top down- 10% goes to each sleeve, 20% each to front and back.

So now we start knitting. We’re going to start in garter stitch to get that lovely square neckline. I put my short seam in the center back, but you could also leave it open in the front for an extra detail. CO your 60% and work one ridge of garter stitch placing markers after 10% (half the back), another 10% (sleeve), 20 % (front), 10% (other sleeve), and you should have the last 10% for the rest of the back.

After knitting one ridge you will start increasing 2 sts at each marker every second row (or each ridge). You can increase any way you like. I wanted smallish holes so I did 2 opposing M1 right next to the marker. A YO one stitch before and after the marker will a much larger hole. If you want no holes do the M1 one stitch before and after the marker. Do this until you like the width of the neck band. I did 8 ridges.

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Switch to your main color and start knitting in the round. Your markers are already at the raglan increase lines. Increase 2 stitches every marker, every second round. Again, increase any way you like. I knit into the front and back of each increase stitch, mostly by force of habit, but there are many differnet looks you can accomplish by different increases. Knit on until your sleeve tops are 40% and each body section is 50%. When your sleeves and body are ready for separating put the sleeve sts on an extra needle or wool and keep going on the body.

If you want to add patterned decoration to the bodice, please do. Brocade tends to pull up, cables tend to pull in, but if you know how to deal with these things go right ahead. I stuck to some K2 P1 ribbing down the front. This stuff makes the knitter feel good and the recipient knows which side is front.

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For an adult you may want to add waist shaping by decreasing from underbust to waist, for a child, this is unneccesary. You’ll want a high waist, anywhere from 3-8 inches below the armpit depending on your recipient. If you, like me, like to read while knitting I would finish off all patterning (I did some seed stitch to finish off my ribbing) and knit a plain stockinette skirt. Or you could add some fabulous cables, or lace, or anything you want. This is your project. Own it.

That said, this is the method for the skirt. The skirt is increased at 8 points spaced evenly around. Do your math and place your markers. If things don’t divide out perfectly place your markers a bit closer together in the back. We are going to increase at the rate of 11 sts every 9 rounds.

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“What kind of random figure is that?” you say… It’s not random at all. We’re going to increase 2 sts per marker at the side seams and center back, and 1 stitch per marker at all the others (11 sts). Now you can count rounds and do all your increases at once, every 9th round…. but try this instead. Make your first increase, knit around until you come back to your M1. Knit on to the next marker and increase. Knit around until you knit that M1, knit to the next marker and increase. So on and so forth.

You’ll progress around to all the markers without needing to count at all. Rather brilliant, no? It takes 9 rounds to get back to where you started your first increase, and because we are increasing by 2 sts at center back and side seams you’ll increase 11 sts each full circuit.

Knit on, read a good book, watch a good movie….. At the desired length- switch to your contrast color and make a bottom garter stitch border. I thought my niece would like a ruffle so the first round of contrast color K3 M1 all the way around. Then 8 ridges of garter stitch and cast off. This is just what I did. Do your border however you like.

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Sleeves: These were fun. I wanted the armbands to look very distinct from the rest of the dress, like they were actually fabulously wrought metal holding the sleeves up. Thus the dense cabling and bars of twisted stitches. The armband starts with your contrast color the first round of sleeve after it comes off the body. The armband is worked on the full sleeve sts so you’ll have a small puffy sleeve cap. After the armband you decrease for a smooth line and then start increasing again to make the bell. Ending with more garter stitch.

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Hopefully your 40% is a nice number into which many things can be evenly divided. If not, no big deal. You can use your favorite cable patterns, or make one up. I wanted mine to pull in a lot, but you may not. The cable chart I used is posted above. The armbands should be between 2-3 inches high.

When your sleeve bands are done start your main color and K3 K2tog around. This will make the sleeve not puffy under the band. After knitting a few rounds plain start increasing at your seamline. I increased 2 sts every 4th round. If you’d like a wider bell you can increase every 3rd round, or even more frequently.

At the length you want (minus edging) you can put in a row of eyelets for cinching up the cuff with a cord. My dress is being made for a 3 year old, and I thought her parents would appreciate a way to keep her sleeves out of her soup. Basic eyelet instructions: K3 YO K2tog around. Knit 1 round plain then make a contrasting garter stitch border.

And now you have a fabulous little dress suitable for any princesses in your life, young, or old. Happy Knitting!

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Yarn: Lion Brand Homespun (I used color Corinthian), or any squishy bulky yarn.
Needles: US sz. 7 dpns

Cast on 36 sts over 2 needles so you have a nice stretchy edge. Work K2 P2 ribbing to the length of your dpn- 7″

Change to stocking stitch and knit plain 2 inches.

Now a short row heel over 18 sts. I did mine in garter stitch for the extra padding, but you can do yours in stocking stitch if you prefer. Instead of using a marker for the middle of the heel just place it between 2 needles- this will make keeping track of your short rows much easier. Wrap all short rows so you don’t have holes.

Ok, the actual method: Start at your center point between needles: K9, turn, K18, turn, K17, turn, K16…… I think you’re getting the idea. When you are down to 4 sts start working your way back up, over 5 sts, then 6, 7, 8…. until you arrive at 18 again. Then you just start going around again. (aren’t short row heels brilliant?)

Knit 1″ plain. Switch back to K2P2 ribbing and work for another 4 inches. Bind off loosely. Make the second one.
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These are a quick little knit and quite cozy for bumming around the house, or to ballet class. Especially good if you tend to wear flip-flops in cold weather. Enjoy!

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