Archive for the ‘Finished Projects’ Category

Bad bad blogger I have been. Sorry.

We were sick, and then we were out of town, and then we were sick again, and now I have no more excuses, just a lots of pictures- be warned!

Nikolai turned 5 – Happy Birthday!

I knit Gabriel a vest: Check it out on Ravelry

I knit a shawl: Check it out on Ravelry

A friend’s son needed a dinosaur sweater: Here on Ravelry

I was gifted 3 fleeces:

A favorite sweater underwent the knife with very satisfactory results: Here on Ravelry

And I knit a little baby vest, and have been spinning spinning spinning.

There you have the very brief version of last month, I’ll try to be a better blogger now!


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As I mentioned with Nikolai’s Tomten, I’m going full tilt to get school uniform things knitted for next year.  The jacket is done, and now a vest too. I might round the wardrobe out with a pullover, but I’m not sure yet.


The Fishtrap Vest for Nikolai.  Started: Thurs, Feb. 28th  Finished: Mon, Mar. 3rd

Pattern: None. Measurements + growing room from his WCTPirates Sweater, and some EPS-esque logic.

Yarn: Knitpicks Telemark color Deep Navy 4.5 skeins / 225 gms.

Needles: US sz. 4 / 3.5 mm  Gauge: about 5.5 sts/in

Size: Boy’s size 5-6.  32″ chest,  17″ from shoulder to hem


Poor guy is still sick sick sick. He likes this vest a lot (yay!!) so he humored me with a photoshoot before crashing for 2 hours – very uncharacteristic for my boy who hasn’t napped since before he turned 1.

Verdict: I’d never knit a pullover vest before, or a V-neck, so the design has a few things to improve. This turned out to be a perfectly serviceable and proportional garment, but next time I’ll make the armholes and V-neck deeper.

On the EPS-esque logic: I tried to apply percentages to various aspects of a vest, aspects not normally addressed in a sweater.  I did the normal 8% underarms, but the other proportions were guesswork. Through the working of this vest I’ve come up with a set of percentages that work for me, and hopefully they’ll also work for the EPS knitting public. Vest-knitters: I’d love your input on this!


A note: None of the percentages reflect the ribbed borders which are added afterwards.  

On to the spinning.

Getting all that lovely alpaca fleece has lit the proverbial fire under my a** and I’ve been spinning spinning spinning to clear out some bobbins to make room for the new stuff.


Another skein of natural dark brown Corriedale for the Cycling Aran (see the unspun fiber here) Woolen spun, Navajo 3 ply. 70 gms / 225 yds.


And some lovely Wensleydale from Peggy (see the unspun fiber here) Worsted Spun, Navajo 3 ply.  70 gms / 220 yds. I think this will be a very special baby thing for someone I know…

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When it was decided that Nikolai would be attending a private school next year I immediately ordered a large quantity of Navy Blue wool and set to work. First off the needles is his school jacket:


The Modular Tomten Jacket by Elizabeth Zimmermann. Here on Ravelry.
Started: February 21, 2008 Finished: February 27, 2008

Yarn: Knitpicks Wool of the Andes Bulky, color Navy Blue, 6 skeins / 600 gms.

Needles and Gauge: US sz. 10 / 6 mm yielding 3.5 sts per inch.

Finished size: 32″ chest, 18″ from bottom to shoulder, to fit a 5-7 year old child.


Features: I-cord edgings on every edge possible -the knit-on-as-you-go-stuff, not applied I-cord. So I-cord up the front edges, and also on the back and fronts armhole edges. I have never seen I-cord edgings used here, but I really like the result. It’s a nice detail without using color for the shoulder straps. I wove the edgings at the shoulders when the fronts and back were reassembled for the collar. Applied I-cord on the bottom edge.

Continuing with the small stockinette details I did a reversible phony seam at the sides (EZ talks about this technique with the Bog Jacket in Knitting Around), and a phony slipped stitch seam at the top of the sleeves.

For extra growing room, I finished off the sleeves with 3 inches of K1P1 ribbing, right now it’s folded up, but the sleeves will lengthen with his arms for a year or so (I hope!). I also used K1P1 ribbing for the collar as I find it much cozier and more fitting for a collar.


I finished off with afterthought pockets, also edged in K1P1 ribbing, and a zipper up the front.

Verdict: I love it! I think it’s a very handsome jacket. I think Nikolai loves it too, as he rarely shows enthusiasm for wooly things. The WOTA bulky is quite soft for being a cheap wool, and I think this will last several years of hard boy wear.

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Professor Moody’s Hose: Now on Ravelry!

<> Whatever yarn you want. I used 4 oz.  Dream in Color Smooshy, colorway Blue Lagoon
<> Set of 5 double point needles.  I used US sz. 1 for a gauge of 8 sts per inch.  Using the small directions yielded a small ladies’ sock.

<> Appropriately sized cable needle or extra dpn.

Sizes: Lots of ribbing makes these socks very stretchy.
Note about the sizes: I choose my yarn and needles based on the number of sts in the foot. Thus, the size labels are only that, labels. You could knit these for a large person using worsted wool, and the small size directions. Use the size that best suits your yarn, gauge, and recipient.  Mine were knit with fingering weight yarn and the small instructions to yield a small ladies’ sock.
<> Small – 92 sts at calf, 60 sts at ankle and foot
<> Medium – 100 sts at calf, 68 sts at ankle and foot
<> Large – 108 sts at calf, 76 sts at ankle and foot
<> Extra-Large – 116 sts at calf, 84 sts at ankle and foot

I designed these after the hose we see Professor Moody wearing for one second at the Yule Ball in the movie version of Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire. I was intregued by the calf shaping, as it doesn’t seem to follow conventional stocking rules. This is my own interpretation of his kilthose.

These are traditionally knitted cuff-down calf length stockings with a fold over top. There are “clocks” running down the inside and outside of the leg, all decreasing occurs at 4 points next to these clocks, there is no back seam. The clock design incorporates a 5 stitch twisted ribbed cable and a 6 stitch zigzag brocade panel that counts rounds between cable crosses. All decreases occur during cable cross rounds so there is very little need for the chart or pattern once you understand how it works. The heel is done in heel stitch and is started one pattern repeat above the ankle split. The clocks continue into the foot, the sock ends with a plain toe.

Ready to go?
<> Using your favorite stretchy cast-on, CO 92 (100, 108, 116) stitches, divide evenly onto 4 dpns 23 (25, 27, 29) sts per needle, and join into the round. Leave your cast-on tail to mark the beginning of the round. The round will begin and end at the back of the leg.
<> Work K1 P1 ribbing for 2 inches, then knit 3 rounds plain. Then we’ll set up for our patterns.
<> Establish your pattern-
Sizes Small and Large:
1st and 3rd needles: P1 *K2 P2* 3 (4) times K2tbl P1 K2tbl P2 K3.
2nd and 4th needles: K3 P2 K2tbl P1 K2tbl *P2 K2* 3 (4) times P1.
Sizes Medium and Extra-Large:
1st and 3rd needles: K1 *P2 K2* 3 (4) times P2 K2tbl P1 K2tbl P2 K3.
2nd and 4th needles: K3 P2 K2tbl P1 K2tbl P2 *K2 P2* 3 (4) times K1.
<> The 6 st panels between needles 1&2 and 3&4 are your row keeper panels, the groups of K2tbl P1 K2tbl will be your ribbed cables. These 20 sts form the clock and are the only elements I have charted- the rest of the stocking leg is worked (as established) in K2 P2 ribbing.

The clock chart: Read top to bottom, left to right.
Note: I would encourage you to not make your zigzag panels mirror each other. This will make your life easier while working the ankle and heel.

“B” indicated a twisted stitch, Ktbl.

To work twisted rib cable: Cable Front: Sl 2 sts onto cable needle, hold to front. K2tbl, P1, K2tbl off cable needle. Cable Back: Sl 3 sts onto cable needle, hold to back. K2tbl, P1, K2tbl off cable needle.
All decreases occur next to the clocks and during cable cross rounds. All decreases are P2tog. Start your decreases on your 5th (small and medium) or 6th (large and extra large) cable cross round.
<> Decrease Round 1:
Small and Large: P1 K2 P2 K2 (P2 K2) P1 P2tog P2tog P1 {clock as charted} P1 P2tog P2tog P1 work rest of needle as established, repeat for other side of leg. 8 stitches decreased 84 (100) sts remain
Medium and Extra-Large: K1 *P2 K2* 2 (3) times P1 P2tog P2tog P1 {clock as charted} P1 P2tog P2tog P1 work rest of needle as established, repeat for other side of leg. 8 stitches decreased 92 (108) sts remain
<> Decrease Round 2: Next cable cross round- Just outside each cable you have 4 purl stitches. P1 P2tog P1 at each set. 4 sts decreased 80 (88, 96, 104) sts remain.
<> Decrease Round 3: Next cable cross round- Just outside each cable you have 3 purl stitches. P2tog P1 on needles 1 and 3. P1 P2tog on needles 2 and 4. 4 sts decreased 76 (84, 92, 100) sts remain.

<> Decrease Round 4: Second cable cross round after last decreases-
6 sts before the clock: P1 P2tog P2tog P1 {clock as charted} P1 P2tog P2tog P1 work rest of needle as established, repeat for other side of leg. 8 stitches decreased 68 (76, 84, 92) sts remain.
<> Decrease Round 5: Next cable cross round- Just outside each cable you have 4 purl stitches. P1 P2tog P1 at each set. 4 sts decreased 64 (72, 80, 88) sts remain.
<> Decrease Round 6: Next cable cross round- Just outside each cable you have 3 purl stitches. P2tog P1 on needles 1 and 3. P1 P2tog on needles 2 and 4. 4 sts decreased 60 (68, 76, 84) sts remain.
Work one more cable cross – more for knee length stockings. Then…

I dislike sock patterning rubbing the backs of my heels when wearing shoes, so I’ve worked heel stitch on the back of the leg before dividing for the heel flap. You can take or leave this idea without hurting my feelings- I’ll give you the instructions for both. Note: For the high heeled sock you will be losing 3 sts from each zigzag panel to the heel sts while still needing them to count cable rounds- if your zigzag panels are identical (ie. not mirrored) you will still have the proper tools- needle 2 will count 3 rounds, needle 3 will count 3 rounds.
<> Low heeled sock or patterned ankle- work one more cable cross round before dividing for heel.
<> High heeled sock or smooth ankle- after last cable cross round:
Round 1: needle 1 knit plain, needles 2 and 3 work as established, needle 4 knit plain
Round 2: Knit needle 1’s sts onto needle 4, you now have 1 needle with heel sts and 2 needles with front/instep sts. Work front as established, work heel sts *sl1 K1* across
Round 3: Work front as established, work heel plain.
Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until the next cable cross (second cross after last decrease) ending with *sl1 K1* heel sts. You may have to go around 1 more time to end up with *sl1 K1* heel sts, this is not important.

<> Using the 30 (34, 38, 42) stitches from needles 1 and 4 work back and forth in heel stitch (*sl1 K1* on right side, sl1, purl to end on wrong side) until you have 18 (20, 22, 22) chain sts on each side.
<> Turning the Heel: sl1 K16 (18, 20, 22) SSK K1 turn, sl1 P5 P2tog P1 turn. Sl1 knit to within one if the gap SSK K1 turn, sl1 purl to within one of the gap P2tog P1 turn, repeat until all heel stitches are worked.


Gussets and Foot:
<> Pick up and knit all the chain sts up the side of the heel, work across the instep as established, and pick up a corresponding number of sts down the other side of the heel.
<> The round now begins at the bottom of the foot. Next round. Gusset 1: knit to within 7 of the instep, K2tog, then re-establish the clock pattern – P2, K3. Work across instep. Gusset 2: K3, P2 to re-establish clock pattern, SSK, knit to end.
<> Continue as established, decreasing at each clock every second round until you have the same number of sts as at the ankle.
<> Work foot to desired length.

<> Discontinue all patterning. The 6 st brocade panel now becomes the decrease panel. Arrange your sts so the needle breaks occur at the exact sides of the foot – same as – the center of the 6 st panel.
<> Round 1: Needles 1 and 3: Knit to 4 of the end, K2tog, K2. Needles 2 and 4: K2, SSK, knit to end.
<> Round 2: Work all sts plain.
<> Repeat the foregoing 2 rounds until you have a total of 28 (32, 36, 36) sts, graft the top and bottom of the toe together.


Please please please: This pattern has not been test knit. If you discover any mistakes please let me know so I can fix them!

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Finally Finally Finally.  The socks that wouldn’t get done are… DONE!


Pattern: Moody (Blues) Hose.  I was inspired to design these socks after the kilt hose we see Professor Moody wearing for one little second during the Yule Ball in the 4th Harry Potter movie.  And I like the Moody Blues.

I was interested in the construction of Moody’s hose because the calf shaping is not like any I had seen before. The decreases occur at 4 points, one each side of the clocks running down the side of the legs.


Whether or not this is actually how the original socks were knitted is moot, I liked this method of shaping. Spreading the decreases around the leg may not be very anatomically correct, but it has a nice effect.

Yarn is Dream in Color Smooshy, colorway VS160 Blue Lagoon.  Purchased at Knitting Bee.

Started: (ahem) August 2007  Finished: February 21, 2008   Finally!!!

Needles and Gauge: US sz. 1 / 2.5 mm double point needles. Gauge: varied… The first sock was knitted at about 8.5 sts/in the second at 8 sts/in.  The more I knit the looser I get, but I think that’s pretty typical for most knitters.



This was more fiber Peggy sent me. There were small samples of Gotland and Border Leicester of similar colors so I spun up both and plyed them together.  This is the first stuff not overspun, I might even call it a bit underspun, but it would make a lovely drapey fluffy lace if it were a softer wool and there were more of it.

And Spinning a Sweater’s Worth?


I bought a full pound of this natural dark brown carded Corriedale sliver.  Lots of vegetable matter, but O so soft.  I’m doing a woolen spun, Navajo 3 ply yarn.  The first bobbin yielded 50 gms/170 yards.  Sportweight.

So far I’ve only spun up one bobbin, and already knitted it up, so I really need to sit back down at the wheel!  I love how light and sproingy the woolen 3 ply is.  It’s heavenly to knit with, if you like that sort of thing.

The sweater will be Helloyarn’s Cycling Aran.  This was the first sweater I ever lusted after as a brand-new knitter.  After an unsuccessful first attempt last winter due to a poor yarn choice, I’m trying again.  Adrian’s blog is also one of the first I started reading that involved spinning, so it seems appropriate that this is my first handspun sweater.

Plans for a February Baby Shawl were scrapped in favor of getting started on birthday knitting, our family has 2 in March so I need to get going!

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So I taught another friend to knit, and it so happens that this friend is expecting a baby in June, and we go to the same church, and la la la… a baptism sweater was called for.

The February Baby Sweater by Elizabeth Zimmermann, found in Knitter’s Almanac.

Started: Feb 12th, 2008  Finished: Feb 18th, 2008

Denise asks how fast do I knit? Rather quickly, being a Continental knitter, but the real question is probably how much time to I spend knitting?  Answer: I’m not sure, and probably too much.  

Yarn: Knitpicks Bare, merino/nylon fingering weight.  Held double.  About 110 gms.

Needles and Gauge: US sz. 4 / 3.5 mm  Approx. 5 sts per inch.


To round out the ensemble I unvented a little bonnet using EZ garter stitch heart pattern, found in Knitting Workshop.


After picking up sts around the edge of the heart, I started knitting the gull lace pattern to match the sweater.  It worked out quite nicely.  I picked up 73 edge sts, decreased 2 at the center top, leaving 63 (7 sts x 9 repeats) plus 8 sts for garter stitch selvages.

After 6 repeats of the gull pattern I decreased K6 K2tog across and finished off with an inch of garter stitch.


An applied I-cord neck edge and ties finishes it off.

Pattern: February Heart Bonnet by Elizabeth Zimmermann. Heart and basic hat found in Knitting Workshop,  gull pattern found in Knitter’s Alamac.

Yarn/needles/gauge: same as above.  About 35 gms of yarn.

Started: Feb 18, 2008  Finished: Feb 19, 2008.

Should I round out the month with a shawl?

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Time to grow more heads.

Several weeks ago Kristen invited me to join a very mini KAL to reproduce this hat.  Being the person that I am, I kept putting it off until on Friday I saw a woman in the grocery store wearing something very similar.

Guilt crept in, I cast on that night, and after knitting almost all day today…


The Crazy Cable Hat is finished!

Pattern: Diminishing Braid Hat by Savida  (here on Ravelry)

Yarn: Lamb’s Pride Worsted color Old Sage. Exactly one skein.  And a bit of BMFA STR mediumweight for lining.

Needles: US sz. 7 / 4.5mm 16″ circular

Modifications:  I would call this a fairly scratchy yarn, so I wanted to line the brim for the wearer’s comfort.  Therefore, I CO 80 sts, purled one round, Kfb all the way around to double the sts, and started the cable pattern from there.

I started decreasing after only 5 inches because my yarn was running out alarmingly fast. I didn’t look at the pattern for decrease instructions (it’s hard to go turn on the computer for instructions when I’d rather be knitting) so I just did what made sense to me, allowing the cable crosses to continue until the yarn supply was very worryingly low.

When the top was done I picked up my 80 CO sts and knit a soft ear lining.


Not sure if you can see it – the deep teal – but I had to stitch down the edge to make it fold under properly.  That very rim of the Lamb’s Pride was too thick to fold down demurely.

Verdict: Honestly? I don’t like it.  All the cable rounds drove me crazy, and it just isn’t that exciting of a pattern.  I love cabling that changes the look after every cross, this just kept doing the same thing over and over and over….   Not my cup of tea, but given the reactions of my family as I finished it up,  I’m alone in my sentiments.

Opinions? Would you knit it? Would you wear it?

Next up, these lovelies.

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